Kyoto · kissaten & machiya stays
Miho Tachibana
Sixth-generation Kyoto native who has been writing the prefecture's kissaten list for us since issue one. Files from Nakagyō and Higashiyama.
A note from the masthead
For ten years we edited travel magazines in Tokyo — Anna at Condé Nast Traveler, Kenji at Brutus — and watched the same ten shrines, the same three ramen counters, the same Kyoto alley get rewritten by every new site that opened its CMS. The country we lived in had 47 prefectures and roughly a century of regional subcultures, and almost none of it was being reported on in English by anyone who actually lived there.
So we left, took six months to walk the Shimanami Kaido with notebooks, and built a publication shaped like the thing we wished we could read: long, slow, place-specific, paid for out of our own pockets, and checked by a Japanese-language editor before it shipped. Seven years later we are 14 staff in Tokyo and Lisbon, 38 regional contributors across all 47 prefectures, and the database sits at 3,200+ vetted spots. The premise has not changed. Real reporting, no SEO.
— Anna Whitford & Kenji Mori, founders
Operating standards
Every recommendation on this site has passed through four fixed gates. None of them are optional, and none of them are outsourced to a content assistant.
A regional editor walks back into the izakaya, kissaten, sento, ryokan or boutique and re-checks the room, the menu, the hours and the welcome. Listings that have drifted — a chef who left, a bath under renovation — are pulled within the quarter. The average guide on the site is updated every 9 months, faster than any major English-language competitor covering Japan.
Every published route has been walked end-to-end by at least two contributors within the last 18 months. We do not publish an itinerary on the strength of a desk edit; somebody has carried a suitcase over it in the season we are recommending it for.
A two-person team reviews every guide before publication for transit fares, seasonal closures, and the small pricing details that English-language sites routinely get wrong. If we cannot verify a price, train time or business hour in the current season, we leave it out rather than guess.
Our ethics and disclosure policy was co-written with the Society of American Travel Writers. All reviews are paid for at full cost. The site carries zero sponsored content. Corrections are posted publicly, with the date and the editor who signed off on the original.
The regional network
We are place-specific on purpose. The person writing the guide to a Kanazawa kissaten lives within walking distance of it; the person writing the Tōno farm-stay list grew up in the basin. Below: a sample of the roster.
Kyoto · kissaten & machiya stays
Sixth-generation Kyoto native who has been writing the prefecture's kissaten list for us since issue one. Files from Nakagyō and Higashiyama.
Ishikawa · craft, market food, Noto
Spent fourteen years at a Hokuriku craft museum before joining the network. Walks the Noto peninsula four times a year to keep the rural listings honest.
Tōhoku · rural ryokan & festivals
Half-American, half-Tōno. Files the rural Tōhoku beat and translates the kagura festival calendar every winter. Has walked the Tōno line so often she has stopped counting.
Fukuoka · yatai, motsuni, Kitakyūshū
Trained as a sociologist at Kyūshū University. Files the Fukuoka yatai beat and runs our Hakata ramen counter reviews. Eats motsuni for breakfast.
Tochigi · Mashiko pottery, Nikkō side routes
Studio potter who turned a side practice into the Kantō craft beat. Maintains our Mashiko, Kasama and Tochigi listings and writes the Nikkō “without the crowds” route.
Okinawa · islands, sanshin, slow food
British journalist based in Naha for the past nine years. Files the Okinawa island beat and the Ryūkyū restaurant list. Speaks conversational Okinawan.
Plus 32 more regional editors across Hokkaidō, the San'in coast, Shikoku, the Izu islands and every remaining prefecture. See the full roster →
By the numbers
independently verified spots in the editorial database — re-checked every 12 months
regional editors filing from all 47 prefectures — more than any English-language Japan publication in operation
average update cycle for a published guide, faster than any major English-language competitor covering Japan
sponsored posts carried on the site since founding. All reviews are paid for, all disclosure is published.
The trust line
Read the full ethics & disclosure policy →“Every trip we recommend, we pay for. Every review we publish, we sign. Every correction, we post publicly, with the date and the editor who originally signed off. We carry no sponsored content. We will not link to a booking partner unless the partnership has been re-verified in the last quarter, and we will tell you when we have one. This policy was co-written with the Society of American Travel Writers and is reviewed every January.”
Frequently asked
That is, in full, who is behind the bylines and what we will and won't do.
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